Black Kale and the Last Cool-Weather Soup

I eat soup all summer long. Hot soups, scalding even; I was brought up on them year round, and enjoy them in all seasons. In the summer, I try to make soup from the nicest seasonal produce-in the winter, I take what I can get..

There is a sort of trick you can play on yourself to keep the winter produce interesting, even for those of us who live in places where nothing is growing that time of year. I copied this from my daughter, who explained it to me. I try to restrict my use of the produce available year-round(winter squash, cabbage, bitter greens, et al.) to the cool seasons.

Then, when the summer stuff is fading, it feels as if there is a new season coming in, with its own goodies. I can look forward to making cabbage or butternut squash soup, because I haven't had it for awhile, instead of just mourning the last tomatoes. It's an artificial shortage, but it works for me.I am not hard and fast, but I mostly adhere to this plan.

On a rare recent Whole Foods visit, brought about by a friend with a car, I got some gorgeous asparagus for $1.99 (!), as well as a bundle of lacinato kale, which I adore, and which does not appear at the Iggle or in my farmbox. The stunning asparagus made me realize that the summer veg are truly just around the corner. It's been rainy and a little chilly this week though. So I thought I'd ring the change in with this last winter-style soup, for dinner, and work lunches this week.

This is a soup for people who love the taste of lacinato (a/k/a black or dinosaur) kale. I am disappointed if I can't distinctly taste this very special kale when I use it in my soup. Here, the kale is not overwhelmed by other flavors, as sometimes happens with more tomato or sausage dominated kale soups. This is also the reason for using the white chard-which has a less pronounced or beety flavor than the red. If you are not besotted with the lacinato taste (I really, really adore it) you might prefer one of the more traditional kale recipes.. (Not that this one is so unusual, it's just very kale-y.) The chickpeas serve the double function of veg and thickening.

If you'd like to make some you will need:

can of chickpeas or 2 cups cooked chickpeas
2 tbsps olive oil
2 cloves garlic
small bunch lacinato kale
small bunch swiss chard (white)
a leek, washed and sliced thinly
an onion, chopped
a carrot, sliced in coins
a stalk of celery, chopped
quart homemade stock, chicken or veg-or boxed equivalent
a yukon gold potato, peeled and cubed
3 or 4 multicolored fingerling potatoes, cubed-thin skins left on
parsley-fresh chopped-a handful
freshly grayed parmesan
red pepper flakes-pref aleppo
sea salt
freshly ground pepper
lemon slice

Puree half of the chickpeas. Reserve both halves. In the oil,in a big heavy pot, sweat the carrot, onion, celery and leek. Add stock, potatoes, garlic, red pepper, pureed chickpeas,half the parsley, salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Turn down to a gently burbling simmer. Shred the chard and kale and add to soup. Add whole chickpeas. Cook for at least an hour, on low heat, -everything should be very soft and melded. Serve sprinkled with the remaining parsley, freshly grated parm, and a grating of black pepper. Some lemon squirted on is always nice with kale.

This keeps well in fridge for several days, but doesn't freeze well-mostly because of the potatoes.

Comments

[steven]

Lindy, what a fantastic site you have!

[Luisa]

I count myself in the BESOTTED with lacinato group. I steam it for a minute before sauteeing with sliced garlic in olive oil and could eat this every day for dinner.

[June]

I was just wondering what on earth some of these things are...lacinato? Never heard of it, but would like to as you sing its praises. We have ordinary green and purple kale. Got to the grayed parmesan and thought it was another magic u.s. ingredient - chortle, chortle...nice to have a laugh at my own expense on a cold wet afternoon!

[lindy]

steven-Thank you, very kind. I have been enjoying yours, which I spotted via Farmgirl.
Luisa-Somehow, I am not surprised that you love lacinato.We seem to pretty much like all the same things, except (of course) for your mysterious distaste for cilantro!
June- it is sooo good. I think it is "cavolo nero" in Italy, if that helps locate it.

[Julie]

I've never had lacinato kale but this soup sounds so good I want to try it immediately.

I've read your next to last paragraph three times now. It just sounds so delicious!

[lindy]

Thanks Julie-BTW, I have another (more tomato oriented) black kale soup- and there is a picture of the kale with that
post. In addition to being delicious, it's really cool looking stuff-it has a kind of a prehistoric quality. It's at www.lindystoast.com/2005/12/black_kale_and_.html

[farmgirl]

Wonderful photo. Soup looks and sounds delish. I adore chickpeas but don't think I have ever put them in a soup. It's been cool here, too (such a treat), and I yesterday I actually contemplated pulling some thick (and what I think of as wintery) garlic and white bean soup out of the freezer. Love the winter produce trick you play on yourself. Great idea!

[Julie]

Just checked out the other soup. That looks wonderful too! And so good for you. I'm looking forward to making both of these.

[Rebecca]

I was just at WF myself and got some of the $1.99 asparagus (people who think WF is too expensive just don't know how to shop) but must have missed the kale. I love kale, too, it really has its own special flavor, although I usually just stew it in olive oil with garlic and have never tried it in soup. This one looks and sounds wonderful and will be on my must-try list.

[The Queer Chef]

looks very delicious. I am such a great fan of soups and I usually like to eat them when its hot especially on a cold weather

[Bakerina]

At last, a new use for lacinato kale! I really, really love that kale-y taste, too, but it seems that every time I buy it, I turn it into that kale/sausage/poached egg dish of Nigella Lawson's. It's a good rut to be in, but I'm just as happy to get out of it once in a while.

A note to June (hi, June!): I have seen this sold in various places as lacinato kale, cavolo nero, black kale and black Tuscan kale. I know that you are a far piece from Edinburgh, but I'll bet that Valvona & Crolla carry it. I don't know if they mail-order their produce, but I do know that they do mail orders, so if all else fails closer to home, you might want to give them a try.