Farmbox 2006: Spinach Strata

It's back. As usual, the first farmbox of the year was largely lettuces. I used these for salads-I'm not overwhelmed yet. There was a small portion of rhubarb, which became a little rhubarb/raspberry compote; some nice herbs; radishes (about which, more later); a good sized bag o' spinach.; and a bread-very healthy sort, no doubt, but gummy of crust. The bread is kind of a basket filler, which often appears in the first, light-ish week.

You saw some of the spinach floating with the raviolis in broth. I was thinking about spinach gnocchi-maybe next week.The rest of this week's spinach went into The Other Sort of Convenience Food, a supper strata, which could just as well be a brunch dish. This humongous recipe will feed at least 8 people. It is convenience food in the sense that all the significant work (not all that much, anyway) can (and must) be done ahead, from 8 to 24 hours ahead. So you can make this in the evening, put it in the fridge,and pop it into the oven for a company breakfast, or supper the next day when you get home from work.

A strata is a house-wifey dish, the sort of thing that appears, in many variations in women's magazines and small town newspaper columns. It is a "pain perdu", or method for using up leftover bread, a savory bread pudding, in fact, akin to bread dressing and the like as well. So, I was able to put my farmbox bread to good use, along with the spinach.

"Strata" is an Italian word meaning "layers". I have seen these recipes referred to as "Italian", but also as "southern." One American living abroad even referred to her family's strata recipe as traditional New England food. Despite the plethora of recipes on the web and elsewhere, I haven't found much in the way of a history or background for the savory bread puddings called "strata." They have clearly been served all around the US for some time, though.

This strata puffs up nicely, and served straight from the oven is scaldingly hot-a condition I favor, but you may want to watch out so you don't burn the roof of your mouth off. It is a variant is adapted from a Gourmet Magazine recipe , which continues to be available at epicurious. I transcribed it here for your convenience (and my own), in case it is not permanently available there. It was intended for use with frozen spinach. I'm sure that would be nice, but I have added my preferred fresh spinach directions. Likewise, I have indicated the cheeses I used, rather than the ones suggested. you can, of course, substitute cheeses with similar character and quality.

bag fresh spinach, washed and finely chopped or 1 (10-oz) package frozen spinach, thawed
1 1/2 cups finely chopped onion (1 large)
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
8 cups cubed (1 inch) French or Italian bread (1/2 lb)
6 oz grated artisan Emmenthaler cheese (2 cups)
2 oz finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (1 cup)
2 3/4 cups milk
9 large eggs
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

Cook onion in butter in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until soft, 4 to 5 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and nutmeg and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Stir in spinach, cook until just wilted, then remove from heat.

Spread one third of bread cubes in a buttered 3-quart gratin dish or other shallow ceramic baking dish and top evenly with one third of spinach mixture. Shallow is best- more chewy, crusty top bits. If your dish is too deep, it will take forever to cook through. Sprinkle with one third of each cheese. Repeat layering twice (ending with cheese.)

Whisk together milk, eggs, mustard, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a large bowl and pour evenly over strata. Chill strata, covered with plastic wrap, at least 8 hours or up to 24 hours (for bread to absorb custard).
Preheat oven to 350°F. Let strata stand at room temperature 30 minutes.
Bake strata, uncovered, in middle of oven until puffed, golden brown, and cooked through, 45 to 55 minutes. Poke it with a thin skewer, to make sure it is all set up. Let stand 5 minutes before serving. (It will still be molten.)

Comments

[Rebecca]

I love stratas and think they make a wonderful centerpiece for a brunch menu; this one looks particularly good.

It's funny that they would sometimes be characterized as Italian, though. It must be because the name sounds Italian to people, because in nature the dish really couldn't be less Italian.

[Jen]

I did the same thing with my farmbox spinach and bread. I made one radish sandwich on the bread and decided I wasn't in love with it. I would say it's funny we did the same thing, but as you've mentioned, it's such a common preparation.

I didn't get any rhubarb yet, though! My delivery day is today, so I look forward to seeing what's in the box this week.

[lindy]

Rebecca-no garlic, for example.
Jen-I do think it's funny, though. I think I have a radish idea. I'm not sure it's going to work though. Just picked up box #2-glad to see those strawberries!

[Jen]

I'm hoping to have more time to myself this weekend, so I'll have lots of time to work with the radishes. I haven't seen the contents of this week's delivery yet, but E. tells me there are strawberries... hurrah!

[Tanna]

Excellent, I love spinach and strata! A winning combo!

[steven]

I'm adding this to my list of "things to make when its not so hot outside"
This dish is more Italian than people realise, it's a frittata con il panne with some spinach and some inspired seasoning on Lindy's part. Check page 388 of The Silver Spoon.

[Rebecca]

I read somewhere recently that radishes on the grill are really great; I'm not sure about seasoning--maybe just tossing with olive oil. I look forward to seeing what you come up with, Lindy, because I'm seeing a lot of radishes in the farmers' market now.

As far as comparing a strata to a frittata, I don't have The Silver Spoon, but most frittatas I've seen are cooked on the stovetop, and don't have anywhere near almost 3 cups of milk in them, but otherwise I guess there is some resemblance.

[Julie]

I've never stopped to consider that a strata is a savory bread pudding but now that you mention it, of course it is.

This looks like a wonderful supper.

[Kimberly]

I'm a huge fan of any variant of pain perdu, be it savory or sweet, baked or grilled. The savory strata-like dishes I've had before didn't have much, if any, cheese; the ingredients of this read to me like a spinach quiche that is poured over bread rather than into a crust. Sounds and looks wonderful.

[Sandie]

Hi ladies - just a quick "thank you" from Australia. At hairdressers this morning flicking through mag and saw sausage/mushroom strata recipe which sounded interesting - trouble is for Good Friday so was toying with substituting sausage for spinach and perhaps red capsicum - anyway mucking around on internet (instead of doing farm office work - ANYTHING to put that off!?) and came across your recipe which I will try for Good Friday!

Cheers

[Joe]

I just did a strata with Gruyere Cheese and Spicy Italian Sausage. I posted it on my blog. Come take a look if you have a chance and let me know what you think. Love the blog!

http://cookingquest.wordpress.com/2008/07/27/strata-with-spicy-italian-gruyere/

Thanks,

Joe