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copyright (c) 2005 Linda Tobin

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December 24, 2007

Three Artists in the Kitchen : A Pumpkin Gratin

Toulouselautrec1Artist Toulouse Lautrec was purportedly an enthusiastic and particular cook, in addition to his other talents. A number of his favorite recipes were collected by Maurice Joyant, a friend of his, in a pretty, but largely useless volume. Either old Maurice didn't watch very closely, or Toulouse wasn't quite the genius in the kitchen that he was in the studio. Pretty much every recipe is unworkable on its face; no need to try them out.

Trust Jane Grigson to find the only gem among them, and also to notice that its vibrant colors echo those of the Vuillard painting of TL at the stove. The recipe appears in my penguin edition of her excellent Vegetable Book, but without the painting, which is reproduced in the Joyant book. This is the recipe, the garlic having been added by yours truly, who can't make a "pumpkin" tian without it. The "pumpkin" I used was butternut squash, which is a good North American substitute for the sweet little french cooking pumpkin TL would most likely have had to work with.

2 lbs pumpkin or butternut squash, peeled, and cut into thin slices, or cubes.
flour with salt and pepper, for dredging
1 lb onions, sliced thin in half moons
sugar
butter or spray olive oil
olive oil
3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
small can of tomatoes- I use Muir glen fire-roasted, or home-canned
Homemade bread crumbs, or panko


Preheat oven to 350F. Dip the pumpkin in the seasoned flour, and fry until golden in the olive oil. Blot up any excess oilon paper towels. Cook the onion in a little oil until just transparent, but not coloring. Add the tomatoes, garlic and some salt, pepper, and a dash of sugar. Cook down until most of the liquid is gone, but it is still moist. In a shallow, gratin-type pan, layer the pumpkin and the onion mixture, ending in a layer of pumpkin. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs to cover, and either spray with olive oil, or pour a bit of melted butter over. Cook until the pumpkin is thoroughly soft. This may take an hour, or even more, depending on your oven, and the size of the squash pieces. Be sure to allow extra time. If the top has not browned nicely, run it under the broiler.


Good stuff. The "three artists" are TL, Vuillard, and Jane Grigson. Sadly, I can provide no photo of the finished dish, as my computer is on its last legs, and terribly stubborn, especially regarding downloading photos from my camera. After Christmas, I'm getting me a brandy new and shiny one, and photos and postings should resume shortly.

Wishing you all a great Festivus...'til 2008, then, gotta go practice my feats of strength.

December 14, 2007

A Mystery in Squirrel Hill: Updated

Img_6248_3

Update: See my comment, below, for the answer.

So what's with the Blair Witch type fuzzy picture? Are there gruesome little bundles of twigs scattered beneath?

Is there something strange and sinister going on in the basement? What could it be? Is it an ill-conceived decoration left over from Halloween? Where is Dame Agatha when we need her? I'll bet Lord Peter W. would guess- but only because he's such a know-it-all. Have I gone mad? Care to hazard a guess?

Basic Kitchen (continued): Equipment, Part III: Baking and Roasting

Img_0112Here we go again with the continuing list of minimum kitchen requirements.

Things get a little hazy right around now. Any list of essential oven ware is going to need some customizing. Because some cooks hardly do any baking, and others are in business primarily for the sweets. While the second group is going to have to get dinner on the table as well as filling the cookie jar, it is possible to be an excellent, engaged cook, and almost never bake. So here's where we're going. First, a list of real basics, then a list of basics for sometime bakers, and finally a few specialty items for those who are engaged in producing dessert on a regular basis. I have more special baking equipment than is consonant with my actual level of activity in this area. I just have a weakness for the stuff.

Basic:

roasting pan with rack

8"X8" square pan steel or ceramic (I use an Emile Henry one, which is nice for small dishes of baked pasta, as well as brownies, and comes to the table looking pretty.)

Three 8" round metal cake pans- you want a bright surface, the dark ones cook too fast. Nonstick is nice.

lasagna pan 8 1/2"X11", (or larger, if you have a big family) pyrex is nice, and some come with snap on lids for carrying your bring-alongs

2 loaf pans (most pan bread recipes make 2 loaves), also good for meat loaf

a pyrex pie pan

a covered oval-shaped or round casserole for pot roasts and oven-roasted chicken, etc. - ceramic , metal or enameled cast iron

2 jelly roll or "sheet" pans, which serve as cookie sheets, and drip-catchers- again, go with a bright metal surface to prevent overcooking, otherwise known as "burning"

6-8 little 4, 6, or 8 oz. custard/timbale cups, pyrex are great, and cheap, too- ceramic ones are often very pretty. (Thanks to Lynn D., who reminded me of these.)

one or two shallow gratin type dishes- porcelain, pottery, or enameled cast iron are dandy. Mine are pottery Frankoma ones, which go with my green everyday dishes. Like the dishes, I got them for a song on ebay.


Sometime Bakers also need:

tart pan or pans with removable bottom

springform cake pan

tube and/or bundt pan

muffin tin

baking tiles or baking stone for making crusty breads and pizzas

rolling pin

porcelain oven-proof quiche pans, large and small

silicon nonstick mats and/or parchment paper


Serious bakers, or crazy people like yours truly, who are maybe less than serious, but love this stuff may want:

mini bundt pans, mini tart pans, mini loaf pans and /or mini-spring-form pans for making baby-cakes

mini muffin tins

madeleine pans

various bundt and kugelhopf pans with different designs

silicon financier pans (bigger silicon pans don't work for me- even as small as muffin size- I crack stuff- but for these little pastries, I love 'em)

a shortbread pan (square) with designs that emboss their cute selves onto the cookies

pudding basins

a linen-lined banneton for rising round breads, and a floury linen for bread making

a marble rectangle for rolling pastry

cookie cutters

a biscuit cutter or 2, and (blush)

a pate terrine...it's true. Also, I must admit to a box full of tiny walnut shaped molds, for making walnut cookies. I love them; they ain't going anywhere.


Now, if you'll excuse me, I've got to go sort this stuff out. Next up: Pantry needs. This project is actually helping me organize my kitchen. Much dubious stuff has been moved to the basement lockup, given away, listed on ebay, or, in some cases tossed. My back hurts, but in a good way. I think. As always, I welcome your suggestions for important items I have overlooked.And I do realize the photo is more suited to the top-of-the-stove section, but I haven't done any decent ones of cake pans. Maybe soon.

December 08, 2007

Soup Buttons

Img_6234I haven't forgotten about my compulsive kitchen-list making. It's just that I found a little something I wanted to tell you about.

If you are a person who serves soup often, you may, from time to time, want something different from the usual nice crusty loaf to have with it. These little cuties, made from a Jacques Pepin recipe could be just what you are looking for. They seem to go well with all kinds of soup, from a delicate broth to a hearty chowder, and can be as rustic or dressy as you like. They are very tasty hot, or you can let them cool off, and they are good that way, too. Also, they're very buttery, so you don't need to serve any extra butter with them. Unless you want to, of course. And they are very simple to do.

Preheat your oven to 425F, and butter a mini muffin tin. In a large Pyrex cup, put a half cup finely chopped leeks and 4 Tbsps. of butter. Nuke them until the butter melts, and add 1/2 cup of cold milk. When the mixture reaches room temperature, with a fork, beat in an egg, 1/2 tsp salt and a tsp of sugar. Then mix in 1/2 cup AP flour, followed by 1/2 cup oatmeal flakes, and a tsp of baking powder. Fill 12 mini cups, and bake for 10 minutes. Turn out onto a clean surface, and serve hot, or let them cool down.

These are also nice for breakfast, with your eggs, should any be left over. They are dandy in bag lunches, too.

December 02, 2007

Basic Kitchen : Equipment, Part II: Utensils

Img_0516I posted the photo here some time ago for a Becks and Posh event called "Utensibility". Entries were to describe the kitchen item closest to your heart, without which you would be, if not helpless, at least bereft. This old French enamelware utensil rack was a steal on ebay, probably because impassioned collectors of European enamelware tend to prefer delicate colors and florals, rather than flaming orange. I'm not a collector, I just love this particular thing, which is in excellent condition, almost entirely chip-free, and hence very usable.

I use it all the time, and also love to see it hanging on my walls, which I painted elephant gray, to match the interior enamel. That will give you some idea of just how much I adore this object. My point here, before I go on to list another category of basic kitchen needs, is that every kitchen should have a thing or two which is/are not only useful, but delightful to it's resident cook. You'll know it when you see it- if you're in a shop, or at a yard sale, or dumpster diving- it will pretty much leap into your arms. I'm just saying, don't set it down again just because it isn't the most practical thing in sight. You'll be glad you didn't.

As far as utensils you need, bare minimum, I suggest the following:

3 knives: a chef's knife 8", or longer if you like a big one, German or French style; a paring knife; and a serrated utility knife, not too long, which will slice your tomatoes and your bread, neatly. As I'm sure you've heard before- if you have a little bit of money, this is where it should go. Good full-tang forged knives take a sharp edge, and they last forever, they are a cook's best friend, etc.

High carbon stainless is the material of choice, unless you are into extreme knife grooming. If you are such a knife person, you can go to carbon steel, which can rust, but sharpens like a dream. You can find really good carbon steel knives, including unused old stock, on ebay, for much less than comparable quality stainless, but they are a pain in the ass- it cannot be denied. I have one, a long slicer, by Dexter, an American brand popular with butchers. If you are not able to spend now, there are quality alternatives which will work very well, and are durable, too.

A cutting board: I like end-grain wood, but bamboo is also very nice, and cheaper. You'd like to have a big one, large enough to roll dough, knead, and carve a roast, and a baby one for chopping veg. You don't need the later if your kitchen is big enough to leave the large one out all the time, ready to go.

A long handled wooden spoon


A slotted spoon


A ladle


Spatulas:
a rubber one for baking, and a metal one-or my favorite ultraheat-proof silicon model, which is somewhat flexible, but not floppy


Measuring cups


Measuring spoons


2 and 4 cup Pyrex liquid measures:
which go happily into the microwave to melt butter and chocolate and are generally totally friendly, familiar and homey. If your Mom didn't have these, you probably did not grow up in the United States


A stainless colander


A tea strainer or tea ball, if you drink tea


potholders, dish towels, and dishclothes:
I am very big on silicon potholders. They are less flexible than the cloth, it's true. But I am a big slob, and get food all over them. The cloth ones just don't clean up well in the wash, and always look pathetic and unclean- even when washed well. Dish cloths are better than sponges, because they can be properly laundered. If you do prefer sponges, you can clean them in the top rack of a dishwasher. Otherwise, they stink dreadfully after a week washing dishes.


long handled granny fork or a carving fork: many people inherit these, which is dandy, but you can also get new old-style ones- they are very nice


Whisks:I use my little flat one (good inside pots), and ball-ended one (emulsifies like crazy) more than my big one. But you need a couple of big ones if you don't have an electric mixer, one ballooon shape. for beating air into eggs or cream. Also, if you don't have an electric mixer- an eggbeater is an object of great usefulness and charm

fine sieve for sieving stuff or sifting flour: If you get one with a long handle, you can use it to drain small loads of veges, etc., of liquid in a hot pan.

Tongs


Bowls to mix in:
including one very big one, for bread and stuff, which can also serve as a large salad bowl

A proper Swingway type can opener, which will have a bottle opener on it, too

A corkscrew The "Rabbit" one is infallible. I am way more fallible than average in this area, so I am devoted to mine. If you are a handy type, you can impress others with your deft use of a simple waiters corkscrew


I forgot: you need a grater, probably two: I like the microplane files for fine grating. It makes lovely fluffy clouds of parmesan and lemon zest. Lots of people prefer a box grater for larger holes, but I like my little anonymous rectangular one, with a long handle. Then again, I do have a food processor to grate vast quantities when necessary. If you don't, a box grater is sturdier, and would probably be best.


Here are some utensils which are not strictly necessary, but are very useful:

Carving knife/meat and/or salmon slicer: You can use your chef's knife, but this sort works much better for thin slicing of meat and fishes. I don't use it often, so..mine is a carbon steel new old-stock Dexter, as discussed above. Likewise a boning knife. Yes, I am a big knife nerd. I don't use these knives so often, so I don't mind the extra care, once on a while. If you are a vegetarian, I'd skip these items.

Knife sharpener: The Furi Ozitech is a good one- the only one that has worked for me. It doesn't do serrated knives. I take them all to be sharpened professionally, once in a while anyhow. If you develop the necessary skills, you can stone sharpen your knives. I think you need a live teacher to learn this though-I haven't had any luck teaching myself from books.


Vegetable peelers- Sure you can use a knife, but these are cheap and excellent value. A second, serrated one peels soft fruits and veg-tomatoes, peaches, and plums, for example- so you don't have to scald them to get the skin off, a recent, excellent innovation

A Benringer mandoline: far cheaper than the high-class French ones, but you must commit to being very, very careful- they are fabulously sharp, and I would hate for you to bleed to death before my virtual eyes. Really, really careful.

Melon baller: also cores sliced fruit with a very tidy result

Cherry pitter- if you ever cook with multiple cherries, you've got to have this- otherwise, no


A bulb basterThese are pretty cool-I like the metal tubed ones best, the glass ones break and the plastic ones go a little melty. They have uses beyond turkey basting. For example, I can't make my favorite tart tatin without one.

potato ricer:Yes, you can mash potatoes with a fork, but this tool makes perfect mashed potatoes.
It is a little hard on the hands if you are making a lot, which is why I sprung for the OXO model.

fish spatula:Here's where you think I'm bonkers. I got this baby as a gift, and initially thought, more or less "WHAAA???". But this is a lifesaver of a tool. You can slide it under, for example, an entire hot, pan-free tart or cake or whole salmon and move it, like, across the room to another surface. I kid you not. It is very, very cool.


So, let me know what I left out, and which tools you love the most. I'm going to be adding more links to this post, but thought I'd get it up, since I'm having some slow computer problems. Next up: Part III: Stuff for Oven Cooking and Baking.


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