The Bread Question Revisited

In September I complained at some length about the trouble I was having finding my favorite kind of bread here in my hometown. I am partial to a dark, thickish carmelized crust, and a chewy crumb, with some big radish sized holes, and a bit of stretch. Not that I don't like other sorts of bread, too- but for an everyday, staff of life kind of loaf, well-that's what I like.If I lived in the SF Bay area, rather than Pittsburgh, I'd just keep myself in Acme rustic baguettes, or something of the sort, and be fine. But I don't.

I was frustrated, because I found several kinds of breads made by Medittera Bakehouse that I really loved, but which aren't carried anywhere I can get to without making a special bus trip. I noted that the Allegro Hearth Bakery, which makes "European Style" breads here in my own neighborhood, seemed, like the other bakeries in town to bake its breads very lightly. I'm sure this has everything to do with what customers are used to, and hence expect, in a town where the Mancini's pale and soft crusted style of "Italian bread" has reigned supreme for years.

No doubt there are any number of Pittsburghers who would think the bread I like best is burnt, and wouldn't try it. Omar Higley, who has been the owner of the Allegro Hearth for a year and a half or so, and seems a nice fellow, commented that I might want to try 3 of his darker breads, including a new batard, with a more carmelized crust. (I thought that this was a very pleasant approach, since he could just as well have asked me who I thought I was to make rules about bread crusts. Of course, this is entirely a matter of my personal fanaticism on the topic, and I am no more qualified than the next opinionated customer.)

That batard is the bread you see here, and I have just tried it. The crust is definitely more to my taste, though I really don't think it's all that dark, truth be told. It has a nice bit of blistering, and a flavor and texture I like very much. The innards taste good too, though they are finer grained and more cottony than my favorite more rubbery kind. It is sour, but not overly so, just the right amount of sour for me, in fact.

The bottom line is I like this bread better than anything else I can get anywhere near where I live, and I'll probably be buying it every week for a while, if I can remember to call ahead for it. Pittsburghers-if you want to try it they are only making 3 of these per day at the moment! They will hold one for you if you call a day ahead, or early in the morning. If you do try it, let me know what you think. BTW, It is a convenient size, big enough to put one out for a small group for dinner, or for one person to eat for several days. It smells good, too.

Comments

[Annie]

The crust does look wonderful - I can't believe they make but 3 loaves a day. They certainly must be hand-crafted.

[Bakerina]

Lindy, when I read things like this, it breaks my heart. It makes me want to dust off that business plan and get my lazy self back to the burgh and start baking bread you could really get your teeth into, so to speak. But it sounds like any bakery that wants to make this kind of bread has its work cut out for them. Not long ago I was watching Rick Sebak's documentary about Oakland, and he showed an Italian deli run by three sisters (the name of the deli escapes me at the moment), and at one point the bread delivery arrives, and they show all these people with their loaves in hand, beaming and declaring "it's the best bread in the city!" and I just ached hearing it: on the one hand, these people were all so warm and kind, and proud of this bread on which they grew up, and it really was heartwarming to watch; but on the other hand, I knew it was that pale, fluffy cottony bread, the kind with no crust and no texture, and even as my heart was warmed, it was also sinking like a stone at the idea that this was the standard by which all bread in the city gets judged.

Sigh.

Happy New Year, dear Lindy. I wish you happy and wondrous things -- and better bread -- in 2006. :)

[Tul]

Hello for the first time.
I like MediTerra bread very much. Their bread is what I always eat in my country, a bread of carmelized thin crust and chewy interior with lots of big air holes, though it is neither so popular there.
I had missed the breads of my original place until I found MediTerra.

If you are a Squirrel Hill neighbor, you may be able to find MediTerra bread at
Ruggeri's Food Shoppe
5878 Northumberland Street
Pittsburgh, PA, 15217

by MediTerra web site.
I hope this will help you.

[lindy]

Tul-Thanks. It's always nice to meet someone who loves the good bread!
I know Ruggeri's- I used to live nearby. Sadly, though it is in Squirrel Hill, it is on the very opposite end from where I live now, about a 4 mile hike- and not on any bus line directly. So it's actually easier to take the bus to Whole Foods in East Liberty!