There are those who scorn the rutabega (alias "swede", in europe), or its relative, the turnip. My sermon for the day is in praise of these delicious roots, in their variety of uses and special flavors. Admittedly, the rutabega, in its natural state is, at best, plain in appearance. It is clunky and generally, in the market,it is coated with some icky waxy stuff , which I suppose protects it in some way. On the other hand, someone may just think it looks better that way-they put wax on apples too,for no good reason.
Turnips can be prettier, especially when small, and when their pretty and tasty greens have been left on. (Turnip greens are beyond the scope of the present ramblings, but they will return.) Nonetheless, neither will win a beauty contest with ruby chard, asparagus, or black kale. But a butternut squash is fairly plain,and still widely loved, isn't it? Rutabega have a delicious taste all their own, and turnips can be sweet.
Most of the mixed platters of roasted root veg you see around exclude the rutabega and turnip , a mistake, in my view. Some folks say they are bitter. I don't know that I would agree, but even if they are bitter, in their way, broccoli rabe is bitter, yet adored. It is a mystery to me, and the only thing I can do about it is offer a recipe or two, and hope some sceptics will try them. And that's what I'm going to do. I would, however, just like to make the additional point that the flesh of the rutabaga is a lovely pale orange color; it is pretty on the inside.
I have read that the rutabaga is a scottish turnip, though it is certainly found elsewhere, and found in the same places as ordinary turnips. In the form of "neeps" (mashed with butter), rutabaga is a traditional companion of the often derided haggis. Haggis aside, (and I've not been offered any haggis, myself, not even in Scotland. If I were, I'm afraid that Monte Pythonesque carryings on would be irresistable , and I'd be too hysterical to eat) neeps is great stuff. So is "clapshot" which is neeps and mashed potaoes mixed. The following is only a fancified edition of clapshot, really, but it is awfully good, and suitable for parties, if you like. It is good company for roasted things, meat and fowl alike.
I have not given specific quantities, as it is quite easy to adjust this for the amount of gratin you'd like to make.
Preheat oven to 375F. Select a baking dish, and butter it. You want something lowish, as the surface is the best part. Peel and cube equal amounts (by weight) of rutabaga and potatoes as will fit your pan, and then some, since the cooking and mashing has a diminishing effect on volume. (Yukon gold are good here.) Do the same with a few parsnips if you like. Put all the cubes in a pan, cover with chicken or vegetable stock, or water. Add peeled garlic cloves, sprigs of thyme, salt and pepper to tast, as well as a bayleaf. Simmer until knife point tender.
Meanwhile, peel and slice the appropriate amount of onions, in very thin half-moons. To calculate quantity, 3 medium onions will cover a 9X12 baking dish- adjust accordingly. Melt a big chunk of butter in a sturdy pan. (1/2 stick for 9X12 dish of gratin-which is a huge amount BTW, and would feed 10 easily). Cook the onions, first on a high heat, until they begin to color, then turn them down some. You want them brownish and melting, but no way crisp. This will take about 25 minutes. Turn off heat
When roots are tender, drain and mash with lots of butter. (Same amount as you cooked onions in-lots). Don't whip smooth-leave a bit of texture. Spead mash in prepared pan. Spread onions over top. Include all butter from cooking the onions too. Bake until the top gets a bit crisped and colored. This will probably take about 20 minutes, unless you have made it ahead, and refrigerated it (okay to do) in which case it will be longer.
This is very good, though there is also something wonderful about just plain neeps, or clapshot, with a bit of butter melting on top, a few scallions chopped over all. With roast lamb... I have a good turnip soup recipe, too. Very delicate and yummy. No, really....
I feel like I'm starting to sound like a broken record. Everything you write about is something I want to eat! This recipe is no exception. I've never cooked with a rutabaga, but in this pureed and onion-topped form with potatoes and turnips, it sounds irrestible.
Posted by: Luisa | January 20, 2006 at 11:37 AM
Lindy, I join you in celebrating rutabegas (and neeps), especially when roasted or mashed. Thanks for the colorful Scottish terms! When I was a kid, I visited Scotland with my grandparents and I remember a menu that listed mashed potatoes as "bashed tatties." Clapshot may have been on that same menu, but I would've had no idea what it was.
Posted by: Brett | January 20, 2006 at 02:55 PM
Gosh, I hate swede but you make it sound so delicious with that recipe that it almost, but only almost, makes me want to go and cook and eat it. Maybe I'll make it just with potatoes!
Posted by: Clare | January 20, 2006 at 03:21 PM
Clare-If you really can't bear the swede /rutabega,try it with potatoes and parsnips maybe, or potatoes and celeriac? But its so good, isn't it Brett?
Well, Luisa, I have been given a lot of thought to curing bacon, myself. When is yours going to be ready to sample?
Posted by: lindy | January 20, 2006 at 08:56 PM
Your blog is addictive! I find myself coming back again and again. I have a family to cook meals for and as much as I like to try and make frilly fancy dishes, the kids gotta eat their greens you know. In Holland our daily dinner is usually centered around the veggies. "What do we have for dinner?" Oh it's -enter any vegetable- then there's some potatoes or pasta or rice and a form of meat or fish. And I tried to find this swede and came up blank.... One of those forgotten foods? It looks a bit like kohlrabi?
Posted by: Baking Soda | January 21, 2006 at 03:35 AM
Baking soda-Thanks for the kind words. It's not kohlrabi, it's more like a yellow turnip, but much bigger. You could use turnips in its place, though. If you find a swede or rutabega, as we call them, don't get the biggest one, as it will be a bit woody. Medium sized is best.
A question for you: What is your take on pea soup- which I understand is kind of a national dish in Holland? I make one (and posted about it) which is based on a description in a novel! I was wondering if you make it, and if so, how. Have you ever posted about pea soup?
Posted by: lindy | January 21, 2006 at 06:29 AM
Ok, I'll try to find swede, maybe on the organic food market. Peasoup is a national dish allright, we call it "erwtensoep" (impossible name to pronounce haha), made of a pork based broth and green peas it's a meal on its own, served with very dark rye bread and a kind of cured pork (not bacon but something similar). I will try to make this some time next week and post about it. Love the idea of a novel based recipe! Are you familiar with the books of Sarah Kate Lynch?
Posted by: Baking Soda | January 21, 2006 at 08:24 AM
Baking Soda - if you search for 'swede' in Google Images it comes up with some pictures that might be helpful (though also shows some people from Sweden!). I think I've had other friends tell me that in continental Europe what we English call swedes are only used for animal fodder and not eated by humans!
Posted by: Clare | January 22, 2006 at 10:14 AM
This sounds great; and I hope you post the turnip soup recipe--I love turnips.
Posted by: mary g | January 22, 2006 at 11:03 AM
I did Google, did the Cooks Thesaurus search, and some other indepth investigations and now I know! It's animal fodder! I wouldn't say so, but since you bring it up....::lol::. They say it is one of those forgotten foods here, and called "koolraap" not to be confused with "knolraap" which is entirely different. Phew those language twists make my head spin...
Posted by: Baking Soda | January 22, 2006 at 12:39 PM
I think I prefer the designation "forgotten food" to animal fodder! It's all in how you look at it, I guess. When I was growing up, my English relatives thought corn on the cob was animal fodder, and now they can buy it with other fancy foods at Marks and Spencers!
We used to bring popcorn over when we visited them, and it was considered a very exotic item.
Posted by: lindy | January 22, 2006 at 01:40 PM
It is so interesting to see how things come and go with time. At the moment I am re-reading an old cookbook I inherited from my grandmother and there are a lot of things in there we nowadays consider luxurious or very modern.
Posted by: Baking Soda | January 22, 2006 at 04:49 PM
I might be in the Netherlands for the Maastricht Carnival next month so I could bring one over which might save you having to go and find a friendly farmer to pinch a swede off. On the other hand, as mentioned above, I tend to agree that all they're fit for is animal feed!
Posted by: Clare | January 23, 2006 at 10:29 AM
Ah, the under-appreciated rutabaga. Back in Cape Breton, they call them "turnips," which made for a few errors when as a kid I tried asking for them in Detroit supermarkets.
Mashed rutabaga (prepared like mashed potatoes, only cut first into smaller chunks, prepared without milk, and with an optional dash of sugar) is an essential part of winter-holiday dining. Unpretentious and unlikely to bear the foppish assaults made on, say, eggnog.
Roasts well, too, with potatoes, carrots, parsnips -- cut 'em into french-fry chunks, toss with olive oil, salt, pepper, rosemary (or herbes de provence). Cold weather comfort food that an accompanying glass of wind does no harm to.
Posted by: Dave Ferguson | November 19, 2008 at 09:51 AM