Hey, Back off!

Almost a year ago, for my birthday, my mother told me to buy something for myself that felt like a treat. That was when I acquired this Emile Henry Baeckeoffe casserole, the largest earthenware cooking vessel I own. I have no idea how to pronounce the name of this dish properly, but you can see from my caption how it sounds in my head. My pretty drip glaze pot is part of the Emile Henry Artisan line, which they say replicates their original 19th century ware.

I have a great weakness for crockery cookware-I find it even harder to resist than cast iron, and I especially love the Emile Henry things, because they are so sturdy, in addition to being beautiful. They can go from the freezer, right into the oven without fear. Witha flametamer and judicious eye, they can actually be used atop a gas burner. Emile Henry also has a new line of extra-sturdy things out, which don't even need a flame tamer. They are quite expensive, and I have not tried them.

Since I got my Baeckeoffe pot, I have used it for quite a few different things- whole chickens with veggies and lots of garlic, daube, etc, but I have never before made its namesake dish, the Alsacian Baeckeoffe. Since I live by myself, I usually don't cook big, unless I have company, but I prefer to try something new on myself first, before serving it up to others. It is a braised dish, though, and should be amenable to reheating, so I decided to get going, and let myself be drowned in convenient leftovers.

There are so many recipes available for this traditional dish, and they are so similar, that I have not relied on one alone. You should feel free to vary the meat assortment, as all sorts of braising meats are used by different cooks. You should not use just one kind of meat, however, as the interplay of meats is an essential characteristic of this braise.

Baeckeoffe is one of those meals found in virtually every western, and many non-western cultures, where a casserole is assembled, without browning the components first, sealed with a flour paste, and set to cook in a slow oven while the family is busy, or observing a religious sabbath. Supposedly, in days when the only proper oven around belonged to the local baker, these were often left at the bakery. They would spend the day in the baker's oven, which was slowly cooling down after the bread had been baked, and be picked up later.

The recipe and end result are more reminiscent of an Irish Stew or Lancashire Hotpot, than a cholent or daube, because of the way the potatoes are layered and break down into the sauce. I think this would be particularly true if lamb was used (I didn't use lamb, as I had oxtails and pork shoulder meat in the freezer.) This is how you make it:

You must marinate the following ingredients, all together, for about 24 hours: Four to five pounds mixed veal, lamb, pork, and/or beef- cut in chunks, salt, pepper, a few sprigs of thyme and some juniper berries, 3 medium thinly sliced onions,a bunch of peeled, whole garlic cloves to taste, and 3 chopped carrots. Over all, pour about 3/4 of a bottle of Alsacian type white wine. (I used a gewurtztraminer.)

The next day, preheat the oven to 325F, and peel and thinly slice about 3 pounds of potatoes. Lightly oil a covered ovenproof casserole big enough to hold everything, and cover the bottom with half of the sliced potatoes. Drain the liquid marinade, reserving it. Layer the meat and seasonings in the pan, and completely cover that layer with the rest of the sliced potatoes.

Pour the reserved marinade over all, if necessary adding water so that the contents of the pan are just barely covered with liquid. Cover the top of the food with a dampened, crumpled sheet of parchment, and then with the lid. Bake for at least 3 hours, until everything is very soft and mellow. Skim fat from the top, and serve in big shallow bowls, with some fresh parsley on top. Alongside you will want a fresh, crisp salad and some crusty bread.

Many recipes call for sealing the casserole with a strip of dough all around. I was planning on doing this, until I realized that most of those recipes referred to a "steam hole" on the lid. I couldn't see anything of the kind on mine, and did not wish to risk casserole explosion tragedies, and the loss of my pretty birthday present. It was just fine, anyway. If anyone tries to tell you something different- just tell them to "baecke offe."

Comments

[anapestic]

"Alsacian Baeckeoffe." Come now, we weren't born yesterday. You made that up, didn't you? It's really the name of a folk dance, I bet.

[lindy]

I'm picturing a folk dance where you begin facing your partner, and then start backing up deferentially, until you begin to bump into other participants, and retreat again,apologizing, until everyone has left the dancefloor completely.

[mzn]

We got a similar looking vessel as a wedding gift but until now I didn't know what to call it. So even if my earthenware thing isn't technically an Alsatian Back Off, that will be its name from now on. Thanks! Nice looking dish, too, and I'm a bit envious of your smart new banner.

[Luisa]

Lindy - that's a beautiful piece of kitchenware! I love the colors. It'd also be the perfect pot in which to make the bread that I posted about today.

[Baking Soda]

LOL that folkdance! I keep seeing ladies in dirndl and men in lederhosen backing offe and bumping.