A Silk Purse

Well, yes, they are pig's feet, and the old saw about the sow's ear came to mind while I was taking their homely picture. They are just not going to be pretty, and the very idea of them puts even a lot of meat eaters right off. I can tell you, though, that I first ate them, and liked them unreservedly, as a sixth grader.

My mother didn't make the pig's feet, some neighbors did. These were very cool neighbors, H and M, friends of my parents and parents of my friends. They were first generation foodies who were responsible for introducing all of us to a lot of wonderful, special food. They were artists, and super cooks, and they knew how to have a really good time. And, like my parents, they were big on including their kids in as many of the interesting places they went and things they did as possible. They conveyed a conviction that the future would be adventures-not necessarily all sunshine and puppies- but well worth the trouble.

So anyway, H and M made these great traditional mustardy, breadcrumb coated pig's feet, which we ate with very sticky fingers, and there were lots of napkins and they were delicious, and a good time was had by all-especially me. I loved them, and haven't had them since, so when I saw this recipe in Jennifer McLagan's Bones, a cookbook I have out from the library-well, I wanted some. Incidentally, the professional photograph of the feet in the book , while better than mine, is not much prettier.

They do usually have pigs feet at the supermarket-I'd bought them in the past to put in a daube, so I knew I'd find them there. I figured I'd better try this myself before foisting it on anyone else, so I got two split feet, instead of the four the recipe called for. As adapted below, it is for,uh, two feet. I'm pretty sure this is the same preparation I had back then. There is a bonus I'm left with as well- about 2 cups of the court-bouillon they were poached in-thickly jelled courtesy of the trotters. I'll let you know what I figure out for it. In any event, if you are brave, and can wait 3 days, you will be rewarded. This is how you do it:

First, you salt or brine the feet with a mixture of kosher salt and quatre epices, or ground allspice. They need about a day in the mix, refrigerated. Then, make a court bouillion:

an onion, chopped
a carrot, chopped
a leek, chopped
a few juniper berries
a couple of cloves
some thyme
parsley
1/4 cup white wine viegar
4 cups water

Bring to a boil, and skim. Cook 10 minutes. Preheat oven to 300F. Tie up the split feet with twine or wrapped in cheesecloth, putting them back together in original form. This helps keep them from falling apart, as you are going to cook them until they are very soft. Put them in a little covered casserole, pour the bouillion over them to cover. Over the top, some crumpled, dampened parchment, then the casserole lid. Into the oven-it will take about 3 hours to get them very soft and loose. Take more time if they seem too rubbery.

When they are done, pull out the feet, and set them on a flat plate, sliding out any bones that come out easily. Untie them, take them apart, and weigh them down on the plate with a cutting board, topped with a couple of cans. Refrigerate overnight. Save the liquid in a covered jar in the fridge-you can peel off the fat in the morning.

The next day, preheat the oven to 450F. Mix:

2 tsps dijon mustard and one egg white. Using a pastry brush, paint the trotters all over and roll them in a generous amount of dried breadcrumbs. Set on an oiled baking sheet, and cook them until they are browned all over- about 30 minutes. Consume.

My guess is that if you are thinking at all you might like to try this, and are not grossed out by the concept-you will love them. They are very good with bitter greens of the salad-y, or cooked broccoli-rabe variety, and some vinagrette. And, of course, napkins.

I'll keep you posted on the jelled bouillion.

Comments

[Tanna]

Well, I guess I'm hesitant maybe not totally turned off but hesitant. I trust you but I just don't have much urge to do the 3 day thing I guess. They do sound interesting in a good way. Maybe if I find them on a menu, I'll give them a try.
Thanks.

[lobstersquad]

Hi Lindy
I´m not crazy about the actual texture of the meat. But I always put pig´s feet in my stock, because the jelly is sublime. Longing to hear about it.

[Luisa]

All I can think to say is I love this blog! From cherry tarts to pigs feet, Lindy, you're a star.

[Lynn D.]

Ooh boy! I've always felt that if you're going to eat meat, you should be willing to eat the whole hog, as it were. Here are my offal stories. Watching my grandmother lovingly prepare, and my grandfather (no one else) lovingly eat pickled beef tongue. In high school I loved the sweet breads at The Blue Horse restaurant in St. Paul, Minn., tried to cook them in NYC in college, had to throw them out at the peeling stage. My roomate would come home from the Sabbath dinner in Brooklyn and say how tasty she found the light (lung) stew. In Eugene, Oregon I braised lamb hearts for dinner parties. They were so delicious, but the hearts were small and a lot of sheep died for dinner for four. My only encounter with tripe is with Campbell's Philadelphi Pepper Pot Stew. Today I still make (organic only) chicken livers regularly. Pig's trotters? (Lindy, do you actually eat the hoof, or just the meat?) I'd insist they be organic and free range and then I'd give them a try.

[Julie]

OK, I have to admit it -- I may be a little squeamish about this. Plus, I never even see pig's feet for sale.

I used to use ham hocks in soup all the time but that's as close as I have come to pig's feet.

[anapestic]

The pig's feet sound terrific, and I might make them if I don't get too bogged down wondering whether both or all four of the feet come from the same pig so that I know where to place the apostrophe.

I eagerly await your report on chitterlings.

[anonymous]

A delicious vegetarian version can be made by slicing tofu and painting it with beaten egg and mustard, roll in seasoned breadcrumbs and bake on oiled parchment paper in the oven till browned!

[lindy]

Tanna-good idea, though it's really not much actual work-just spread out a bit
lobstersquad-I've been using them in a daube for ages-but this is the first time I've made them as the main attraction
Luisa-Thank you, you are so kind. You know I'm a large fan of the Wed. chef.
Lynn-Chicken livers are a regular thing with me. I adore sweetbreads, and absolutely cannot get them around here. My mother used to make a great dish with them in a thin sauce with these little mini-mazoh ball/quenelle things... Someday, I should tell the tale of my hysterical and entirely unsuccessful attempt at tripe.Cooked it for hours and hours, and still it was as if produced by Uniroyal for use on a truck.
julie-I think that probably a lot of people feel that way
'pestic-trust you to notice the apostrophe dilemma. I actually thought those thoughts, and quashed the digression. In this case, I think it was probably "pigs' feet",really.
No chitterlings for me...tried 'em- and loathed 'em
anon-I like tofu fine, and I'm sure that would be good,but I doubt if there would be much resemblance!

[Sarah Miller]

I just added "Bones" to my Amazon wish list today. Having recently confessed to having a thing for bones in a semi-public venue, I thought that I should make good culinary use of it.

I have eaten pickled pig's feet. As well as pickled boiled eggs. And I have to say that neither experiences left me soured. I tend to pause in the aisle when I come across pig's ears and feet. Now I might just toss a few in my basket. This recipe makes the prospect seem appetizing and not just something to elicit a look of shock from the person I feed.

I have been enjoying your blog for a month or so now. I am new to the Pittsbugh area and am giving my own foodish writing a go. Looking forward to future correspondence,
Sarah

[lindy]

Hello Sarah-Welcome to the 'burgh. We also have Rebecca of "Eat"-written with son Leland, who is in NYC. (see food blogs link). There are not so many of us -glad you've arrived.