Toast and the Truffled Eggs

I had been reading about truffles in a book by Elizabeth Luard, and it is possible that I may have been doing a bit of moaning about how sad it was that a funghi fancier such as yours truly was unlikely to ever get a chance to taste truffles, or try cooking with one. That can be the only explanation for my having received a half ounce of canned black truffle in a tiny little glass jar, on the occasion of my birthday.

Not my usual sort of thing, fancy-pants stuff, and all that. But sometimes a person gets a bee in her bonnet. I was definitely thrilled with my treat. I think the little jar is, itself, adorable, and if you look closely you will see that there is a small black puddle inside. The jar lists "truffle juice", as an ingredient. For some reason, I find this fetching.

From the start I was (ungraciously and silently) worried that this was not a fresh truffle of certain origin, as it is clear that Ms. L. feels that just about everything that is extraordinary about truffles is dependant on these two factors. But hey, I never expected to have any sort of truffle, after all. Anyway, I was all set to go once I found this Paula Wolfert recipe in The Cooking of Southwest France. The truffles it calls for can be fresh or canned, and it involves slow-scrambled eggs, a personal favorite.

The characteristic Paula Wolfert fiddliness was exactly what I was looking for-I wanted to fuss a bit over my one-time truffle, yet not to drown it in extras; after all, I was wondering what it tasted like. Not to mention that she's such a stickler that if she says a canned truffle is okay here-well, I'll just generally believe her.

This is quite a rich prepartion, what with the butter and cream and so forth. But it is meant to be served in small portions, in little ramekins, as a starter. So- not so much. And this amount, made with 5 eggs, should serve three. This is what you need:

a black truffle-fresh or canned PW doesn't specify weight-I went with most of the can one small truffle, plus a bit more
5 very nice eggs
3-4 tbsps unsalted butter
pinch of favorite sea salt
1-2 tbsps heavy cream
white pepper

About an hour before serving, slice half of the truffle thinly, and the rest into teensy cubes. Break the eggs into a fine wire sieve over a bowl. Crush the yolks by gently pushing them against the sieve with the back of a wooden spoon. Let them drip through, it takes about an hour. I know, I know. But this sort of thing is fun sometimes, no? You needn't be entirely O.C. to enjoy it.

Butter the inside of the top of a teeny double boiler (I have a pint-sized flea market one, the lid is chipped, but the insides are perfect- it was just right). Set over the bottom, which should be half full of just simmering water. Add the eggs and half the butter, and stir with a wooden or silicon spatula. Cook, stirring constantly, one to two minutes.Add the salt and pepper, and stir until barely thickened. 6-7 minutes or so, keeping heat very low, gradually adding the rest of the butter. Keep scraping the sides and bottom. When the eggs begin to hold together, stir in the diced truffle and cream. Cook 1 minute more, and scoop into ramekins. Garnish with the slivered truffle. Serve asap. Probably, you shouldn't stop to take a photo.

In any event, it was delicious, because I love this kind of eggs. But I could barely taste the truffle-despite the high ratio of truffle to egg. I think I would have enjoyed it more with some sauteed wild mushroom, minced and mixed in,in place of the truffle, which was, frankly, a dud. So I guess Elizabeth Luard was right . Probably whichever sort of canned truffle PW had in mind was a different animal entirely. I suppose I'll try sliding the rest, in slivers, under the skin of my soon-to-be-roasted chicken, and see if it has any noticeable effect. Someday, I would love to try me a fresh truffle. Maybe there is some Truffle Merchants' Association to sponsor a research grant? Somehow, I suspect they don't have to do much advertising.

Comments

[anapestic]

I'd guess that if you happen to find yourself in Perigord (or wherever it is) some day, then it might be worth while to try a prime specimen. But given the cost and the unavailability of prime specimens, it's probably just as well that you weren't blown away by the truffle.

The eggs themselves sound so nice that I think I'd enjoy them as much or more with some very nice fresh herbs. Or, if I wanted to be extravagant, I'd soak some dried morels and use those, perhaps after cooking them slowly in butter with a bit of shallot.

[redfox (lindy's daughter)]

"Fancy-pants stuff" not your kind of thing, my eye! Sounds great.

[Pat Kight]

The very best truffled eggs I ever ate began with farm-fresh eggs, still in the shell, stored overnight in a Zip-lock bag with a couple of thumbnail sized fresh Oregon white truffles (Tuber gibbosum). The woodsy aroma permeated the eggs straight through their shells, and the next morning we scrambled the eggs with a little cream and scattered shaved truffles on top. Fabulous.

I've had imported French truffles since then, and I must say that the Oregon varieties compare very, very favorably, particularly to the canned, imported sort.

[lindy]

anapestic- I think you're right on that. I wouldn't mind a trip there to dig some up, though
redfox-My pants ARE NOT fancy. Hmmm. Well, maybe. Someday you too will have a child to call you on every dubious remark you make!
Pat-As a matter of fact, I tried the ziplock thing, but these truffles were too weakly scented to have any noticeable effect. However, having learned about permeable eggshells, I thought I'd try someting else. I've got a few free range eggs in a bag with some pungent orange peels. I thought an orange flavor might be nice with some scrambled eggs. We'll see. Mimosa Eggs, anyone?

[lobstersquad]

those truffles in jars are always pretty dissapointing, I find. My favourite cheat´s method is to sautee dried (resurrected) trompettes de mort and then add truffle oil. It tastes good, looks good, so who´ll complain?

[Lynn D.]

Greetings from your friend and admirer in Oregon. I am sorry to say that for some reason I have always missed truffle season. Perhaps next year you can remind me and I will FedEx you some truffles nestled in rice. I recently bought some truffle oil and was very disappointed. I used it twice and don't think I'll use the rest. It would be nice actually, if this were an expensive indulgence we just didn't care for. I had fresh caviar, once, from Columbia River sturgeon; it was was delicous, but I've never gone out of my way to have it again. My favorite Oregon 'shroom is the chanterelle and last year was the first year in a long time we didn't gather some.

[Tanna]

A little fussiness is sometimes just what we need or want. I'm with you on wanting to try truffles.
Even if the truffle didn't take you by storm it sounds like the eggs were right on. I have enjoyed the truffle infused oil.

[lindy]

lobstersquad: I don't know that mushroom-Does it mean"trumpets of death"??!! I would be very wary of a mushroom with "death" in its name!
O my, Lynn. When is the truffle season? I too found the oil disappointing-I'm not sure if it was the particular brand I had.
I tasted real caviar several times as a kid, and just loved it-despite being a kid. I think it was less (comparatively) expensive then..or my parents wouldn't have bought it. My mother served it a couple of times at parties, and I got to taste it. There were thin little toasts, sieved hard boiled eggs, and finely chopped onions with it. Now, it's just beyond expensive, and I've never felt I could buy it, myself.
I (well, what else) love chanterelles too.
Tanna-Sometimes fussing is highly therapeutic, no?

[Judy]

Trompets de mort are black chanterelles. They grow here in New Jersey, along with the more numerous golden chanterelles. So of course the less common black ones have the better flavor.

Mushroom season all depends on the rain. The last two years have been poor - summer dry spells turn what golden chanterelles appear into chamois leather. When it was really wet three years ago I could go with two friends and we'd pick 10 pounds in an hour or so. Luxury! even if we haven't any expectation of finding truffles.

[Kimberly]

I'd be happy with just the slow-cooked, creamy eggs, as I'm quite fond of them that way. Wild mushrooms would be great, too.

I've never had a fresh truffle, which seems rather sad, as I'm not far from Oregon. They're available between November and March, but January is apparently the height of the season.

[june]

If you ever get a real fresh truffle do store it in the egg box with the eggs, which will pick up the flavour. Failing the real thing I was delighted with a packet of truffle infused taglierini that I acquired last week - Cara Nonna were the makers. One meal au naturel and last night another with carbonara sauce. Years ago I was discussing the merits of truffles with someone - "They have a really earthy pungent scent" I said. "Oh, you mean like wet dog?" she said. Well, a bit!

[lindy]

Courtesy of reader Judy Glattstein-here is a bit more on the topic of the French truffle, a fun read

http://www.frenchgardening.com/postcard.tmpl?SKU=1171442674637681

Perhaps I should see if there is a local mushroom hunting expert in my area. I know we haven't got truffles, but some time ago I was served chantarelles by an elderly French acquaintance of my parents, at her "cottage" in Ligonier, PA (not far) . She fixed them in a huge saute pan with butter and garlic. They were delicious, and there was as much as I wanted to eat-the only time ever, with chanterelles.

I asked her where she got them, and she actually said, "The peasants pick them and sell them."

"Peasants!" Holy cow. Marie Antoinette lives..

[Judy]

Chanterelles, both golden and the black trompet de mort, grow in the mixed deciduous forest along the road on which I live in western New Jersey. As I said before, the "crop" is very dependent on adequate rainfall. If you visit my web site, www.bellewood-gardens.com, click on Diary, then go to July 2005 and scroll down, there's a chanterelle entry with a recipe for corn and chanterelle pudding. The July 2006 entry has pictures of black trompet de mort on a plate and in situ, ditto golden chanterelles.

I really appreciate these mushrooms, not only for their delicious flavor, but also because I can happily forage on my own since there are no poisonous look-alikes to confuse me.

Just another five months . . .

Judy

[littlebouffe]

Can't imagine what it'd be like to have a truffle, and I'd be delighted to enter the fray for a truffle research grant.

When I worked in a fancy food shop, we got a few in stock. To think of it, there must have been hundreds and hundreds of dollars worth of truffles: we had to sign our names if we sold one. I was pretty truffle-ignorant then (still am) but I guess it was a lost opportunity that they didn't store their (amazing, Italian) eggs alongside.

I can't forget my first whiff of fresh white truffle: I nearly retched. Had no idea what to expect.

Still haven't had the chance to eat them.

[the chocolate lady]

Happy Birthday, Lindy, and many happy returns of the day.

[Richie]

Wow, im a little late to the party here.

At my work, we store fresh perigord truffles with farm eggs for two days, then cook the eggs in a temperature controlled bath at 147f...for 45 minutes. We serve them on brioche toast with sliced truffles and chives. Barely anyone orders it, but those that do proclaim it as an epiphany when they taste it. Either way, truffled eggs are great soft scrambled too.

Have you tried storing eggs with a really smelly cheese, like morbier? Thats a fun trick. Even storing them with an onion, and then serving them with corned beef hash is good.

[Lindy]

Sounds great. I see you live and work in SF, so I guess I won't be able to be stopping by your work for the truffled eggs in the near future. I am going to try some other smelly things with eggs- the orange peels were not a sucess at all. Not orange-y. I'll bet those onions have an effect, though!

[Ercilia]

I had a terrible experience with a tiny white truffle I gave my husband once. We opened the little jar and oh, the disappointment. It tasted like cork. No detectable trace of that delicious earthy flavor. Did you taste a little bit of the truffle itself? Because sometimes they just don´t taste like fresh truffle at all. I stay clear of those tiny jars now -and the little thing was so damn expensive!
One thing I found weird in this recipe: I always heard and read that you add truffles at the last minute, preferably after you have cooked the food, because their flavor is very delicate.
I have tasted white truffle shavings on spaghetti and risotto and also black truffles in a number of dishes. For my taste, white truffles are a million times better.
About truffle oil -I sometimes use it, but I´ve heard that its tends to be artificially flavored...