Composed

A salad, around here, is most often an ad hoc arrangement of that which is on hand. We all know combos which work so well that they have names: Salad Nicoise, Waldorf , Caesar, Cobb,and so on. Other salads- tuna salad, egg salad, potato salad, coleslaw, have endless variations either as written recipes, or improvised within general boundaries. French cooks, in particular, seem to have a lot of named, formalized composed salads in set format, which are repeated scrupulously, with reliable results.

I don't often make a specific pre-ordained composed salad, because I'm not shopping with such things in mind. So I usually don't have all the exact stuff for any particular recipe. Besides, I like to fool around. That is, unless. of course, I'm in the middle of, say, a spinach and pear salad obsession, or something, and eat the same salad nightly for days, even weeks. I was surprised to realize, while leafing through Elizabeth David's Summer Cooking,that I actually had all the ingredients for her very specific "Chicken Salad."

Also, it appealed to me, though I wasn't up for making my own mayonaisse this time. I'm pretty much housebound this week, and not into either shopping or elaborate preparations. I'm spending most of my time on the sofa, writing up stuff for work, while bandaging and elevating the foot I cleverly deluged with boiling coffee last Thursday. I'm hoping it heals up fast, so I can avoid a skin graft. Luckily, this was an easy supper to assemble from the pantry and in-house leftovers. Also, it didn't involve dealing with anything which could be considered, well, hot.

So, I followed the directions almost exactly, except for using Hellman's, and made this for "four people":

Meat from half a roast chicken, cut into generous "filets" (I interpreted this to mean pieces of a size to serve with knife and fork), 3 oz. sliced raw mushrooms, 1/2 pound boiled new potatoes, 2 romaine lettuce hearts, 8 largish shrimp, shelled and cooked, 1/2 cup mayonaisse, with some horseradish mixed in, and the yolk of a hardboiled egg.

Slice potatoes and put them in a bowl with the chicken, mushrooms, and half the mayo. Mix them, then spread the rest of the mayo over the top. On top of that, put the shrimps, and the romaine hearts (cut in quarters).Push the egg yolk through a sieve, directly on top of the salad, to fall "lightly and decoratively" on top.

This (I did eat more than 1/4 of it, must confess) and some crusty baguette made a fine supper. E.D. is the mistress of the simple, direct, and elegant recipe. My paraphrasing detracts, for which I apologize. If you haven't read her in the original, do. You are in for a treat. Next time I make this, I will do it in a flatter , wider dish, so the pretty little new potatoes, nice chunks of chicken, and sliced mushrooms will be visible under the shrimp/romaine/egg garnish.

Comments

[Lisa (Homesick Texan)]

I agree, Elizabeth David is one of the most elegant writers. I love her recipes!

[Trig]

Have a look at Peter Gordon's "Salads - The New Main Course", Lindy. Your salad life will never be the same again.

[zp]

My feelings about the composed salad are too strong to put into mere words.

And Lindy, if you need anything, let me know. Housebound can be a real pain and I'm, seriously, 2 blocks away. And I'm planning an Eagle trip and drugstore trip for Thursday afternoon or Friday early morning.

[Lynn D.]

I'm so sorry about your foot-a skin graft sounds alarming. I can''t go to the grocery store for you, but perhaps we should have internet tea again this afternoon?

[Julie]

Even serious injury can't keep you out of the kitchen! Although on a serious note this whole burn/possible skin graft thing sounds terrible. Scary how dangerous kitchen accidents can be.

Your salad is beautiful. The pale greens against the pink of the shrimp and the yellow egg yolks looks very spring-like.

[lindy]

Thanks, guys.
zp-If you had walked by last evening, you would have seen a bizarre figure in a robe, with one giant white foot, on the porch, leaning against a chair, and taking pictures of her salad. Not quite right in her head, poor thing.
lynn- Sounds nice. Care for another cup?
Trig-I will check it out for sure.
Lisa- Always a wonderful read.
Julie-Thanks. We play with fire!

[Ash]

Lindy, I love the look of your salad. Elizabeth David's books are excellent.

[Tanna]

Such great neighbors you have Lindy both real and virtual. I'm really concerned when you talk of skin graft even knowing how lucky we are to have the option. I really cheering for it to heal soon without.
Wish I had been walking by when the bizarre figure in a robe was out taking pictures of a salad! We none of us are quite right in the head.
Still I would say that the bizarre figure in a robe took a really fabulous picture of the salad, stopped me in my tracks.
I really need to buy more copies of ED, she is one to pick up at random and re-read just a few minutes of...always find something worth while of hers.
The egg thru the sieve thing I've always read about but never tried, now I'm more inclined.
Take care of the foot! Blessings up on it.

[zp]

I just don't want to see a bizarre figure in a robe, with one giant white foot toppling OFF her porch, camera in hand. Take care.

[lindy]

Tanna-many thanks. Made the cookies, BTW
zp-You do seem to have me accurately pegged there, kiddo. Though it might be an amusing spectacle, I will do my best to avoid it.

[lindy]

ash-Thanks-enjoying your blog.

[Sarah]

I was alarmed to read about your burn. I managed to burn myself pretty badly, though not over a wide span of flesh while trying my hand at a Martha Stewart bread recipe once. Burns hurt in that "can't think of anything else but the pain" way. All the best for your recovery.

As for the composed salad, it looks nice and fresh for this time of year. The sight of the shrimp made me remember this little crustacean, which I have neglected since I moved to Pittsburgh. I have to admit, I paused a bit at what I thought was shredded cheddar cheese on top of the salad. It somehow didn't seem to fit. But then I read the whole bit. Egg yolk,yes. Yummy.

[lindy]

Sarah-It does look like cheddar...which would be particularly vile with shrimp. In fact, I would, until recently, have said that cheddar and salad were, altogether, well, "un-mixy things". I had a roasted pear/arugula salad at Davio's though, which had a rich crumbly English cheddar on it, and it was wonderful. Never say "never", I guess.