If you know me, you know I eat soup year-round. Though it is pretty hot here in Pittsburgh today, I wanted some soup for supper last night, and this is what I made. If you don't have soup permanently brain-encoded as winter food, I think you will find the shades of green and brown flavors summery, though not in an icy, light as-a-feather-y sort of way. I continue to lobby for eating hot soup in hot weather; my family has always done so, and I think it's a tactic worth trying- also, hot tea, which I swear cools me off. That being said, this particular soup is also very nice chilled.
It is a variation on a Deborah Madison recipe, and works quite well, I think. Entirely vegetarian, it gains its depth of flavor from the three kinds of peas used, split green peas, English peas, and sugar snaps, and from the smoked paprika. It is nice with fried croutons for a garnish. If you aren't (I'm not) a vegetarian, it is also pretty good with some crispy diced pancetta on top instead. The chilled version goes well with thinly sliced lemon and a few fronds from the fennel, if you've got them
I used frozen baby English peas, rather than fresh ones. Fresh ones are not so available here, and so a bit of a rare treat. If I get some (our CSA farmer holds out some hope for next week), I will fix them simply, so I can really taste them. But if you've got fresh peas coming out of your ears (figuratively)*, you might want to use them instead of the frozen.
You will need:
1 cup dried green split peas
1 tbsp butter
2 Tbsps olive oil
2 tbsps chopped parsley
1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary
1 yellow onion, chopped
2 carrots, chopped
1/2 cup chopped fennel bulb
2 cloves garlic
smoked Spanish paprika 1/2 tsp
salt
zest and juice of a lemon
2 cups sugar snap peas
1 cup english peas
a bit more rosemary, chopped finely
1/2 cup cream
Cover the split peas with hot water, and let them sit while you brown the veggies and herbs. Heat the olive oil and butter in a heavy pot, and, over a medium heat, cook everything through the fennel for about 15 minutes, untl dark golden brown nd soft. Add the garlic and Spanish paprika, 6 cups of water, and the split peas and salt. Cook over a medium heat, just burbling, for half an hour. Add the sugar snaps, and continue to cook for another half hour. Add the English peas, and puree thoroughly. An immersion blender is ideal for this task, but you can use a chinois or foodmill, too. Stir in cream and lemon zest- then season to taste with more rosemary and/or paprika, lemon juice, and/or salt, as you like. Reheat, or chill as you like, garnish, and consume.
I had this with sandwiches of shrimp spread on thin slices of wheat toast.More about that shrimp spread to follow. Nice supper.
*If fresh peas are coming out of your ears literally, I would not presume to advise.
I enjoy hot soups all year round. I love pea soups, from thick, stand-a-spoon-in-'em types to thin purees, but I tend to think of them as winter soups. This recipe might just change my mind.
Posted by: Kimberly | June 16, 2007 at 02:26 PM
BTW, your comment about fresh peas coming out of ears literally almost made coffee come out of my nose literally.
Posted by: Kimberly | June 16, 2007 at 02:29 PM
Mmm...that looks good, and I'd love a bowl of it in any weather! About hot foods in hot weather, the whole Indian subcontinent agrees with you: we drink steaming hot tea when it is boiling hot outside, and it is refreshing :)
Posted by: Nupur | June 16, 2007 at 06:34 PM
Kimberly-I'd love to serve you some- especially since I made so much of it.....sometimes I get a bit carried away-I made at least 6 generous servings. I hope I can finish it before I feel like it is coming out of my ears.
Nupur-You know, I think I need to save up and take a visit to that subcontinent, which has produced so many of my favorite people and so much of my favorite food.
Posted by: lindy | June 17, 2007 at 05:32 PM
Not only do I like hot (temperature) food in hot weather, I also think hot (chilis!) food helps cool you down in the heat. A blazing curry is just the thing.
Posted by: Lynn D. | June 18, 2007 at 01:33 PM
I made this for a late lunch today. Lovely, lovely soup, even without the smoked paprika (which I didn't have) or salt (you know). I added a small red hot pepper (lady at the farmers market wasn't sure the variety) for a little kick. Both Paul and I thought it was quite tasty.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1037/616304753_47825f3f87.jpg
Posted by: Kimberly | June 24, 2007 at 09:23 PM
Your soup looks beautiful! Did you have it hot, or cold?
Posted by: lindy | June 24, 2007 at 11:02 PM
Hot today, as it was cool and drizzly out, this being June in Seattle. I'm planning on cold for lunch tomorrow.
Posted by: Kimberly | June 24, 2007 at 11:13 PM